Northern Jeolla Hikes

Jacob Lotinga, author of A South Korean Mountain Sketchbook and China’s Holy Hikes, recommends two easy rambles that can make for an interesting and manageable weekend trip from Gwangju.

Many Gwangju News readers will have been to Ipseokdae and Seoseokdae before – so why not head over the border to Northern Jeolla to get some hiking action Jeollabuk-do-style?  Presented here are two delightful hikes that shouldn’t be too demanding.

Maisan: ‘Horse Ear Peak’

Name: Maisan means ‘horse ear mountain’.  This is because the ‘twin peaks’ of Maisan have reminded some observers of horse ears.  Through the ages, Maisan has inspired many other poetic epithets.  Indeed the names attached to Maisan seem to change from season to season.
Why go there? The ‘ears’ of this mountain are reminiscent of the karst hills found in some parts of southern China; they are smoother, but still dramatic-looking.  Although the summit itself is closed until 2013 to ensure hikers’ safety, a gentle hike (mostly along a wooden walkway) leads to Tap-sa, a spectacular Buddhist temple boasting extraordinary stone structures that represent the thirty-year project of a mystic.  Eun-su-sa (Silver Water Temple), another temple at the base of the peaks, has a pear tree planted by a king and makes for nice photos.
How to get there: Catch an express bus from U-Square to Jeonju (1 hour and 20 mins.)  Then walk up the street to the intercity bus terminal and get a ticket to Jinan (40 mins.)  A local bus will take you the short distance to Maisan, which can actually be seen from Jinan.
Length of hike: Two hours.  Although staying overnight in Jeonju before your hike is ideal, it is also possible to rise early and visit Maisan as a daytrip from Gwangju.

 

Moaksan: ‘Mother Mountain’

Name: Moaksan means ‘Mother Peak Mountain’.
Why go there? This is a typical Korean hike with fine mountain scenery and few tough sections.  There are two ancient temples: Geumsansa (Golden Mountain Temple), dating back 1,400 years, the place where you should begin your hike; and Cheongyongsa (Green Dragon Temple), which sits up in the mountains and has at least a thousand years of history.
How to get there: Travel to Jeonju by express bus, (1 hour and 20 mins.), then catch local bus no. 79 to Geumsansa Temple (40 mins.)
Length of hike: Two hours.

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