Gyeongju: a Getaway to the Shilla Kingdom
Photos by Andrea Edwards and Sarah Bosch
Number two on the list of Lonely Planet’s Top Picks for South Korea is Gyeongju, but it often gets forgotten in favour of the draws of Seoul, Busan and Jeju. However, it is definitely worth making a trip soak up the fresh air, mountain views and a taste of old Korea.
Only two buses per day leave from U Square for Gyeongju (9:45am and 4:40pm), taking three and a half hours to get to the ancient Shilla capital, winding their way past Daegu through the beautiful scenery of Gyeongsangbuk-do. Once you arrive you are an easy ten minute walk from the bus terminal to downtown Gyeongju.
The first thing you notice when you arrive in downtown Gyeongju is the sky. It sounds strange but you can really see the sky, from horizon to horizon in every direction. There are no skyscrapers blocking your view, no E-marts, no noraebangs, no towering shops blaring K-pop, just the sky, the mountains and the dome tombs of the kings of past. Of course, these things do exist in Gyeongju, we are in Korea after all, but thankfully they are kept an arm’s length away from the treasures that make this city so special and give you the breathing space to really appreciate it.
In the centre of town are the two main parks to see the dome tombs, Tumuli Park (1500 won entrance fee), and across the road the Noseo-dong Tombs (free). The latter housing tombs built between the 4th and 5th centuries, which contained two gold crowns that can now be seen at the Gyeongju National Museum. You can also see the largest Shilla tomb standing at 22m high with a circumference of 250m. Both these parks are beautiful to relax in, although Tumuli Park does get more crowded, and of course, due respect must be paid to the tombs by not climbing on them.
The aforementioned Gyeongju National Museum (free) is definitely worth a visit and is vast in its collection of artifacts from Gyeongju’s past. A word of warning though; don’t try walking from downtown to the museum. It is just a little bit too far and you will be too exhausted to see most of the museum. The highlight is seeing the gold Shilla crowns on display along with the relics that were pulled from the Anapji Pond. All are stunning and give you a sense of the richness of Korean history and culture that has all been wiped out in most places.
Down the road from the museum is Anapji Pond, a garden that once commemorated the unification of Korea under the Shilla Kingdom but now is just a backdrop for wedding photos. The scenery is beautiful and especially so at night with the reflection of the buildings in the pond. Although be prepared to have your elbows out to get a good spot for a photo, you will want to take a few. I got a little too Instragram-happy there!
The jewel in Gyeongju’s crown would be the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Bulguk-sa and Seokguram Grotto (both a 4000 won adult entrance fee). Both sites are out of town but can be easily reached by bus. I would recommend going to Bulguk-sa first as you have to pick up a connecting bus from there to reach Seokguram. You can also use your MyBi bus card on the local buses there.
Bulguk-sa is a fine authentic example of Shilla carpentry and artistry, nestled into the mountain; you can explore the terraces and pagodas in the complex. Being one of Korea’s national treasures the temple does get busy and here too there is no end to the photo ops taking place. As impressed as I was to see genuine Korean craft I was also a little disappointed. Right in the central courtyard of the temple a metal structure has been erected that towers over all the terraces and totally destroys the view. It is extremely difficult to take a photo of the temple without this metal monstrosity getting in the way. I am hoping it is only a temporary addition while conservation takes places, but you never know.
Of course, you exit the temple via the gift shop, but it is worth taking a look. They have a fine collection of Korean paintings of varying sizes and prices available, along with other souvenirs. If you are interested in picking up some artwork I would recommend stopping here.
A short 20-minute bus ride further up the mountain from Bulguk-sa is Seokguram Grotto where the statue of Sakyamuni Buddha sits. From here you can see stunning views of the whole Gyeongju region and even see out towards the East Sea. From the entrance it is a short walk through the woods to the grotto. Seokguram was constructed in the mid-8th century from granite that was quarried in the north and brought to the current site on a narrow mountain path. Inside the grotto sits the Buddha, considered to be the protector of the land as he looks out to the East Sea. Even though tourists push and bump each other in the small space, all vying for the best view, you can still be overwhelmed by the beauty of the statue and stone carvings, and the peacefulness inside the grotto. Seokguram is a must see in Gyeongju.
Being close to Angdong you can enjoy the famous Angdong Chicken, not to mention the famous Gyeongju bread that can be bought on every street! In the university area of the city there are a host of western style restaurants and the usual array of coffee shops and hoff bars.
Overall, I would highly recommend Gyeongju to see where it all began and appreciate the natural and historical beauty on offer in this ancient city.