Jeolla: Koreans’ Bridge to the Past?

The development of South Korea into an advanced economy has put South Jeolla in a curious position. Its history and general tendency to be at political odds with the rest of the country have long labeled it “the renegade province,” but its troublemaker image, as a result of the economic boom, has started shifting. With South Jeolla’s emphasis on the environment, its array of natural sites and its traditional foundation, the province’s image is transforming into a kind of nostalgic throwback to what Korea once was, or at least being advertised as such.

“It’s the Jeolla provinces where you’ll find the essence of Korea at its most potent,” said one tour guide. “A somewhat ironic contention since the Jeollanese have long played the role of the renegade.”

“Jeollanese cuisine is the envy of the nation,” a website claims. “Pride of place on the regional menu goes to Jeonju bibimbap, a local take on one of Korea’s favourite dishes.”

Of course Jeollanese culture is not as black and white as that. Locals in the region are apprehensive about subscribing to such views.

One Jeolla local named Lani agreed that while the province does hold a high standard for Korean food, she was far from confident to say it is very traditional. “Maybe it’s because I live here, but I don’t know if it’s very traditional. Maybe for people who live in Seoul it is, because they think everything outside of the major cities is just a rural country.”

She went on to say, however, that she does hear often that the values of Korean culture are changing. She mentioned the lack of funds that the government provides to rebuild and sustain temples, as well as low or non-existent entrance fees to museums. “Many people don’t care about museums. Even if there is [only] a 5,000 [won] fee, people will complain and say this is too high. In this way, maybe Jeolla people care more about some things, like the temples being rebuilt.”

Jeolla’s identity within South Korea’s fast-changing culture is an ambiguous one. On the one hand the province prides itself in the environmental integrity of such sites as Suncheon Bay and the Boseong green tea fields. On the other hand, its representatives are always seeking more people and funding through industrial attractions like the Yeosu Expo or the Korean Grand Prix, both of which were relatively unsuccessful.

“The new representative for Suncheon is a conservative,” noted Lani, ”I don’t remember the last time we had a conservative leader in Suncheon. Some people are upset, but others think that we need a change if we are going to receive any funding from the government.”

According to GIC tour guide Warren Parsons, “It is no longer just ‘fast-fast’ which Koreans have been so proud of, but a feeling of people wanting a subtle return to simple ways. This province seems to be smack in the middle of these contradictory tendencies.”

So where does Jeolla fit? Is it the bridge between South Koreans’ speedy transition into industrialism and their fading past? Or is it much like the rest of Korea, simply trying to profit from the fruits of its economic success and create an infrastructure that can compete with its counterparts?

Maybe no one knows the answer, but the ambiguity of the region and its future, like much of the change in South Korea, has made the province a national anomaly and a point of interest to keep an eye on.