Shimonoseki, Japan: Visa Run or Just for Fun – Part 2

Mention Japan to any traveler and immediately the big cities will come to mind. Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto all get name-checked. While the big three rightly deserve their status, Japan is much more than those cities, in much the same way that the USA is more than New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles.
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Japan is rich in culture and has many smaller cities worth exploring. One of these cities is Shimonoseki, which lies on the western edge of the main island of Honshu. Shimonoseki’s location has historically made it an important gateway between Japan and the rest of the world. Being a port city, Shimonoseki also has diverse foreign cultural flavors.

The Rising Sun’s Western Gateway

Shimonoseki is accessible through the international ferry terminal in Busan. The ferry to the city runs daily and is an overnight trip. You can expect to leave Busan at 8pm and arrive at around 8am the next morning in Shimonoseki. The departure time from Shimonoseki is the same as Busan.

Before leaving there is a small fuel/port tax on top of the fare. The ship is large and has three main decks. Amenities on the main deck are a duty-free shop, a karaoke room, a small arcade and a common area. Rooms line the main, second and third decks with the shared bath area on the second deck.

There are different classes of rooms available. Second-class is the cheapest and costs 180,500 won (all prices quoted are round-trip). If you don’t mind sleeping on the floor with strangers and dealing with more noise, this is the most economical way to travel.

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“Kaikyokan Aquarium houses over 200 species of fugu (the poisonous blowfish) along with other rare and interesting fish from across the globe.” 

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Upgrading to first class costs 237,500 won with the choice of either a two or four bunk bedroom. If you are traveling in a group this may be your best bet.  You can also pay extra to have these rooms to yourself. Those craving luxury can choose the deluxe cabin for 332,500 won along with an extra 40,000 won to make it a solo affair.

After leaving Shimonoseki’s terminal, if you head east you can see the Kaikyo Yume Tower that stands at 502 feet (153 meters) and has the highest observatory in western Japan. The observatory offers excellent views of the city and the tower is beautifully lit at night.

Head further east and you will enter the Karato area, where you will find the Kaikyokan Aquarium, Karato Marketplace (a fish market), the Kanmon Wharf and Akama Shrine. Kaikyokan Aquarium houses over 200 species of fugu (the poisonous blowfish) along with other rare and interesting fish from across the globe.

A little further down the road is Akama Shrine, which is hard to miss due to its beautiful, bright red and white gates. The shrine commemorates the tragic story of Emperor Antoku who died at eight years old in 1185.

In Shimonoseki, you will notice the fugu motif just about everywhere you look. Shimonoseki handles half the country’s catch of the blowfish, making it the fugu capital of Japan.

Fugu poisoning is lethal, and the adventurous often sample this fish to tempt fate.

Fugu is served in wafer-thin translucent slices cut and arranged artistically so that they turn any light they catch into rainbows. The fish tastes quite bland and is slightly chewy. Most fugu is commercially farmed and safe, as it is free of the deadly tetrodotoxin. Strict regulation and licensing of chefs is also in place to prevent poisoning.

Another controversial dish served in the city is whale sashimi. The meat is a deep ruby-red color and is greasy, yet essentially tasteless and rather disappointing.

The areas away from the coast are also worth exploring. Chofu area is known as Castle Town due to the many old temples and samurai residences. For those seeking a relaxing soak, hot springs are scattered throughout Shimonoseki, including one on the northern tip near the ocean.

Here is some advice for the working or the soon-to-be working teachers: Shimonoseki does not have a Korean consulate where you can acquire a new working visa. You must go to the consulate in Fukuoka for that. However, if you are between jobs and/or just want to tour Japan for a while on a 90-day tourist visa, Shimonoseki offers a great starting point for travelers, thanks to its rich history and unique local cuisine.

Article and photos by George Palafox