Hanjeongsik: A Meal of a Hundred Dishes

Most people who have been in Korea for longer than a few hours have tried banchan (반찬), the infinitely-varied side dishes that are served with just about every meal. The tradition of having these side dishes is based on principles of purity and balance that began with the introduction of Buddhist cuisine over a thousand years ago.

Of course historically, there were differences between the sorts of banchan served in peasant homes or temples, and the sort of banchan expected by members of the elite class. When served together as a meal, peasant banchan were called baekban (백반), meaning (a hundred dishes), while royal meals of
the same sort were called hanjeongsik (한정식), which today means a set meal designed for nobility.

Hanjeongsik restaurants usually employ the most practiced chefs and pride themselves on the presentation and quality of the food that they serve. As such, they tend to run on the pricey side, with meals costing anywhere from 30,000 to 200,000 won per person! But do not worry, you get what you pay for: first-class treatment and some of the finest traditional food Korea has to offer.

These meals, like the one you can get at Arirang House, which is located on the second floor of the Gumso International Hotel, almost always start off with tea and cool rice stew to cleanse the palate and whet the appetite. Then anywhere from 10 to 50 dishes appear in rapid succession based on seasonal ingredients, as well as the restaurant’s own particular specialties.
Arirang House’s menu heavily features fish and strong flavors that should appeal to the most adventuresome foodies out there, while other restaurants may serve pork or even a hot pot as their main dish. Despite different seasonal and local varieties, food at Hanjeongsik restaurants follow a certain pattern: cold appetizers like soups and pickled dishes first, then a selection of kimchi and sautéed vegetables, followed by the main dishes of steamed, boiled, fried or cured meats served over rice. It all depends on what is available and what is popular. But, this is not nearly enough detail to satisfy real food-loving readers! Let us dive into the more minute elements

Here is what you can expect from Arirang House in the late summer and early fall. First up, there is a stew served with cockles, a kind of bivalve mollusk. This stew comes with sides of sea squirt soup seasoned with sweet plum vinegar and a spicy sea snail salad. Then salmon and halibut sashimi arrive, a sweet succulent goodness!

Dried sea cucumber dumplings stuffed with shrimp paste join the mix. Sea cucumber is usually quite chewy but becomes almost jelly-like when dried and steamed. Fermented skate makes two appearances, one as a mild steamed dish with aromatic herbs and one as an aggressive “samhap” rolled together with kimchi and pork. Be careful if you have never tried fermented skate before, the ammonia can make you cry. A smorgasbord of vegetables hits the table while you munch away, with offerings like pickled sesame leaves, sweet potato stems, eggplants, dried turnip and of course, more kimchi.

Getting full yet? I am not, because here come the main dishes. Pork ribs stewed with jujube, both sweet and rich; finely-pounded Alaska pollock and beef pancakes; fried squid that tastes like nachos; braised pumpkin in a spicy fish broth. And for the final course, dried croaker, split in half and served whole with pepper flakes and a bowl of rice to mellow the extreme salty taste of the cured fish. For dessert, some sliced fruit and green plum tea.

Then, double punch your high-roller card with a trip to the Bordeaux wine bar on the first floor of the hotel, which is run by a highly knowledgeable and heavily decorated Korean sommelier. With all the fun food, prompt service and great atmosphere offered at upscale Korean restaurants, traditional Hanjeongsik meals are an entertaining experience, especially for large groups on special occasions. Budget permitting, it is definitely something everyone should try at least once.  Happy feasting!