Bari E.: Gwangju’s Next Dining Hotspot?

Reviewed by William Urbanski.

Running a restaurant is tough. Beside the inherent difficulties and skill involved in cooking up delectable dishes on a daily basis, restaurants are complex businesses that involve logistic and organizational challenges. That’s why any restaurant that hasn’t only survived but thrived for over a decade should immediately be on any self-respecting foody’s radar. Café Bari E., located in downtown Gwangju, just behind the CGV, is such a restaurant and provides a multifaceted dining experience with a certain touch of “je ne sais quoi” (“that indescribable quality,” for our non-Canadian readers).

In business since 2009, Bari E. (very loosely translated as “at the rice bowl”) has recently undergone extensive renovations to commemorate its ten-year anniversary. When first entering the building, the premium ambiance is palpable and the interior of the whole building (especially the dining area) is gorgeous. What stood out to me most were the vintage-style tables and chairs; a refreshing change from the cookie-cutter “Ikea-inspired” furniture that’s all too common in similar restaurants these days. While I never had the chance to dine at Bari E. before its renovations, it’s clear that a lot of careful thought and planning went into creating a dining space that provides a comfortable yet classy atmosphere.

Bari E. has three main dining areas: the ground floor, which accommodates couples and small parties; the second floor, for larger groups; and the balcony, which will open in the coming warmer months. All three of these areas will no doubt be seeing a lot of action from Bari E.’s loyal clientele, who range from Sunday afternoon casual diners to those looking for a more intimate experience.

During the recent physical renovations of the restaurant, the list of culinary offerings also underwent some changes. Many customer favorites stayed on the menu, but there are some new items, too. My wife and I sampled a large swath of the menu, and we were quite impressed by the care with which the dishes were prepared, the presentation of the food, and, above all, the taste. Of the two types of pasta we tried, our favorite was a seafood pasta dish that was served in a small black pot, which meant that after gobbling it up, we could enjoy the sauce almost like a soup – I can’t say I’ve ever had anything quite like it. Although I am no pizza connoisseur, I’m without question a pizza aficionado, and that’s why I had particularly high expectations for what was coming next.

The first thing I noticed was that the bacon pizza had a thin crust, which is always a huge plus. Something a lot of people don’t know is that in Italy, home of the pizza, the crust is, without exception, very thin: None of this deep-dish nonsense, which is little more than an abasement of culinary perfection. The bacon pizza delivered, big time, and even had a special twist on a tried-and-true recipe. The crust was actually soft enough so that instead of just shoving it down my maw as fast as humanly possible, we were invited to try rolling up the slices first. While unconventional, this pizza gets an enthusiastic two thumbs up from me. I also tried the classic potato wedges (amazing in their simplicity) and scarfed down more than my fair share of tasty garlic bread. For refreshments, I had some berry “ade,” while my wife enjoyed some Spanish wine. All in all, it was one of the more memorable meals that we’ve had in Gwangju.

Besides the gorgeous interior and the great food, the feature that I feel really sets Bari E. apart from other restaurants is its combined dining experience. In Yangnim-dong, there’s a well-known six-way intersection (in Korean, yuk-gak, 육각, or more colloquially, “6K”) that’s host to the well-known Yangin Bakery and 6K Coffee. Bari E. is actually part of a group of businesses that are managed and operated in tandem, which means the downtown location has a wide selection of bakery items that come in fresh and daily from the Yangin Bakery, as well as deliciously brewed 6K Coffee. At Bari E., a customer can enjoy all the tasty treats of Yangnim-dong without having to trek all the way up there.

The next time you’re downtown with some friends and are looking for a dining experience that’s a little more memorable and a little less conventional, drop by Bari E. If downtown Gwangju is flavor country, Bari E. just might be the new sheriff.

The Reviewer

William Urbanski, managing editor of the Gwangju News, has an MA in international relations and cultural diplomacy. He is married to a wonderful Korean woman and has myriad interests, but his true passion is eating pizza.