Where to Eat: Cucina Vera – Piazza Pizzeria
As Westerly typhoons flood our houses (I really should have closed that window) and winter chills move in, comfort food is hot on our minds. For many, that means familiar foods from childhood.
In my case of growing up in a big Italian household, comfort food was good pasta served with rich sauce. Until recently, simple-but-hearty Italian cuisine has been hard to find in Gwangju, despite the plentitude of Italian restaurants. So when I went out recently and braved the terrifying storms to taste-test Piazza Pizzeria, a brick oven Italian restaurant founded in the Roman tradition, I must admit I was not expecting to be swept off my feet by anything other than the winds. I was in for a treat! By the end of the meal, I was tapping my heels in satisfaction like a delighted Dorothy saying, “There is no food like Rome.” It is that good.
Piazza Pizzeria was founded by a husband and wife duo trained in the kitchens of Rome. Their menu, available in Italian, English and Korean, focuses heavily on dishes prepared in the Roman style and offers a large selection of modestly-priced pasta dishes along with over a dozen pizzas.
For those who are not familiar, Italian food in Rome shies away from red sauces to feature cheeses, oil and herb flavors. Roman chefs believe that each ingredient on the plate, no matter how insignificant, should shine on its own. That is no easy task for an Italian chef in Gwangju where many of the essential ingredients are not available in our supermarkets.
Fortunately Piazza imports almost everything they serve straight from Italy, with the exception of their locally-sourced vegetables and meats. Many of their greens they actually grow in their own garden. Authenticity is everything to this pair. To prove their dedication to quality, the first floor boasts an open kitchen where prospective customers can watch the chefs hard at work.
If you go during the day, you may see these chefs preparing the slow-cooked ratatouille pasta base that has become their number-one signature dish and led their recent rise to fame among the international community. Thick and overwhelmingly flavorful, it is the chef’s one break from his otherwise classical repertoire and it is where his expertise really shines through. I know, French food in an Italian restaurant seems different, but trust me, this is the kind of ratatouille they make movies about. In every sense, a Tour de “Force.”
Another must-try on the menu is the rucola e prosciutto pizza: crispy crust topped with real Italian prosciutto and a pile of fresh-picked arugula salad. Zesty, spicy arugula mixed with salty, creamy prosciutto is the very definition of La Bella Vita. If eggplant and arugula are not to your fancy, there are plenty of other choices on the menu, ranging from elegant seafood dishes, luxurious vegetarian options, local steak and even saltimbocca (a veal dish topped with various spices).
Everything is prepared with the love and attention you would expect from “la cucina di nonna” (“Grandmother’s Kitchen” in Italian). In other words, everything from the pizza dough appertivo to their fettuccine di manzo is perfectly divine. There is even a decent selection of imported bottled beers, thankfully none of which are named “Peroni.” On tap, they have a popular hefeweiss and a surprising little pale ale from Vietnam’s small brewery scene. About the only caveat is that Piazza does not offer any wine selection … yet.
True to Italian style, Sunday is a rest day for this couple, so plan accordingly not to visit on a Sunday. The central location, quiet atmosphere, pleasant view of the Asian Culture Complex and eclectic decoration make Piazza Pizzeria a great place for a leisurely lunch or a fun date. Take out is also an option, but with food this fresh it would be a crying shame to reheat it at home. Seating is plentiful so reservations are usually unnecessary. Just stop by, loosen your belt and prepare for an evening of eminent, yet affordable fine dining.
Piazza Pizzeria
광주광역시 동구 제봉로 114
Open 12 to 3 p.m. for Lunch, 5:30 to 10 p.m. for Dinner
Last orders must be made at 9 p.m.
Open Mondays to Saturdays, Closed Sundays
062-227-6100 for reservations or take-out
http://www.pizzeria-piazza.com/