An Indian Feast in Downtown Sangmu: Indy
By Sean D’Angelo
Five yards outside the door and it already smells like Hindu paradise, a heady musk of cumin, cardamom, coriander, and turmeric beckoning the senses. These chefs are not kidding around. Nestled alongside the 518 Memorial Park in metropolitan Sangmu stands “Indy”, a lavish culinary experience that has been one of Gwangju’s exotic staples since the Daejeon-based restaurant chain opened a branch here in late 2012.
As a self-proclaimed “Authentic Indian” experience, Indy has the heart of rich and savory home-style Indian cooking with all the trappings of a fine-dining establishment. Silken drapes, mosaic tapestries, and delicate paintings cover the walls while whimsical dioramas grace the space between tables. About the only things missing are the cushions and hookahs. It seems the owners want this restaurant to be considered a high-class establishment. If Michelin reviewed restaurants in Korea, Indy would be vying for a place at the top. To that end, the waiters are neatly dressed, conversant in English, and work hard to make guests feel comfortable and welcome. Our reservations, made by phone, were unnecessary as it turned out and we were promptly seated at one of the ample tables for two.
The chefs, trained in their native cuisine at home before moving to Korea, admirably represent the diversity of Indian culinary culture with the variety of dishes offered. Their menu is a hefty ten-page, full-color beast, with options for all tastes and diets. Prices are a bit steep compared to other Indian restaurants in town with sides averaging about 4,000 won and curries starting at 19,000 won. However, when it comes to the food, Indy is unapologetic. Besides the complimentary side of pickles served at so many foreign restaurants in place of kimchi, and a curry pasta menu so cursory it barely merits mention, no attempt is made to satisfy standards imposed by Korean gastronomy.
The curries, all halal friendly as the manager informed us, are ubiquitously thick and sensuous; more spice than sauce in most cases. With few good lamb restaurants in Korea, we ordered the Ghost Kadai, a chili curry with a solid punch of spice that had us frequently seeking refuge in our naan. The tandoori is smoky, fresh, grilled to a satisfying charcoal crisp, served with a fennel-lemon cream side that turned away my date, but had me hanging on the uncertain edge of distaste and addiction. The flavors all matched but the taste was so unique it is difficult to characterize. Chicken tandoori was our choice for the evening, but prawn and lamb rib were also on the menu. In contrast, our appetizer, a puffy fried onion and vegetable dumpling medley reminiscent of pakora, but much larger, was redolent with ginger and subtle spices that teased the palate. The drinks list is unfortunately a bit sparse with few imported beers and a mediocre selection of over-priced wine. I found myself wishing for a Kingfisher, but settled on a two-for-one yogurt mango lassi special that was almost stunning.
Flowery rhetoric aside, the atmosphere at Indy is fun and the food overall tastes fantastic. For a romantic night out or a business meeting over lunch, Indy makes a fine venue. In an attempt to stay family friendly, Indy also offers a recommended children’s menu featuring some of their milder dishes. Though, the prices and atmosphere are not kid-friendly.
Getting there is easy, if you can find the 518 Memorial Park. If you go early enough, you can even enjoy a sunset stroll through the forest or the quaint little temple nearby if only to feel less guilty about all the weight you just put on.
Address 광주 광역시 서구 치평동 135 번지 1층
Open daily for lunch 11:30-3:00, and dinner 5:30-10:00 (11:30-10:00 on weekends and holidays.) Reservations available 062-376-7052, and menus online at http://www.indyfood.co.kr/