Beyond Bukhansan

By Nicola Archer

Welcome to Seoul, the city of round-the-clock activity happening right on your doorstep. From shopaholics to food connoisseurs to music enthusiasts, there’s something for everyone. But when I made the move from Gwangju to Seoul, as much as I was excited for the hustle and bustle of the capital city, I grew to love Mudeungsan and the pleasures a weekend hike provided me. Would Mudeungsan be my last mountain?

In fact, arguably the first mountain you’d think of when South Korea comes to mind is Bukhansan, nestled in its eponymous national park spread out over 30.86 square miles along the northern periphery of Seoul. Unsurprisingly, it tops most peoples’ to-do list and would likely be your first port of call as a hungry hiker newly moved here. But there are many more mountains to be explored beyond Bukhansan. So, like a kid in a sweet shop, I hovered my hand over the glass jars and made my first mountain pick: Gwanaksan.

Situated south of the Han River and marginally close to a shopping mall, it was decided. We all know dress shopping in and out of changing rooms straight from a sweaty trudge across hill tops is what most gals want to do. No, rather I had a wedding to go to the next day, and this was my last chance to grab appropriate attire. So that was that, a pleasant October walk before popping in a shop and snatching up a steal by 10 p.m. closing. Easy.

Walking a slow, steady slope up alongside the stream through the safety of a lush, green forest was just what I was looking for. This is what it could have been had I started off on the Government Complex Gwacheon Station side of the national park, like where I descended. As it happened, I was clinging on to an exposed rocky terrain with what felt like less skin than a fingerprint, having to hoist my ankles to my ears and push up. Okay, I’m not a rock climber of any sort, but with the wind flapping at my earlobes and any slight tweak of my head to the left, it did feel like the entire city below me was disappearing before my watery eyes. Past those hair-raising, overhanging rocks and some ropes to hoist myself up, the reward of the view at the top was spectacular.

At the summit, you will find Yeonjudae Temple carved into the cliff edge: a unique spot. The entrance sits a few meters back from the rockface and looks out over the immense drop to the valley below. There was just enough room for six people to kneel down and pray. A calming chant led by a monk inside the temple filled the air, while rows of rounded red lanterns bobbled about in the breeze overhead. While I paused there for a moment, I was offered a sweet by a kind ajumma (아줌마, middle-aged woman) who seemed keen to flex her English. She’d traveled all the way from Daejeon to the temple on the advice of her recent shaman visit. Gwanaksan hosts several important Buddhist temples, but said to be the most famous and sacred is this one.

Based on feng shui principles, Gwanaksan is regarded as a “fire mountain” because the peaks resemble the shape of flames. With the mountain’s spirit of fire, during the Joseon period, there was actually a serious concern about a potential fire occurring at the Imperial Palace. For this reason, there were two statues of the mythical animal haetae (해태, a creature believed to prevent fires) positioned on both sides of Gwanghwamun as a protective measure.

On this autumn afternoon, groups of hikers and intimate couples were cuddled together drinking and laughing, clinking cups brimming with makgeolli. But if an alcoholic thirst quench is not what you’re looking for on top of a mountain, perhaps a flavorful, frozen popsicle would do? Those too can be purchased from a cool box for a couple thousand won.

At the base of the descent, you’ll see ajeossis (아저씨, middle-aged man) tucking into soups on stove tops, but unfortunately the closing time of the shopping mall was looming, so I had to cut my adventure short. I’ll definitely be back, although I think I’ll opt for the easier route up next time.

The Author

Nicky Archer is a Kia Tigers’ enthusiast and somewhat of an adrenaline junkie. While living in Gwangju, she enjoyed being a part of the Gwangju Hikers club and the occasional saunter down Chungjang-ro.