How to Rescue a Wet Weekend in Busan
By Adam Nash
They say the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. Well, it turns out last-minute, half-baked plans can collapse just as quickly. Last month, after a sudden urge for sun, sea, and adventure, I booked a weekend away in Busan, including a sunset paddleboarding experience at Gwangalli Beach. There was just one small problem. If I had only bothered to do the most basic bit of research, I would have known that the forecast for that weekend was non-stop rain.
So, there I was, on Saturday morning, looking out of my hotel window at the sodden streets below, with no backup plan, no umbrella, and no clue what I was going to do for the next 24 hours.
After a quick regroup and Google search over breakfast and a strong coffee, I discovered my hotel was only a short walk away from Spa Land, one of Busan’s largest premier spas. This massive spa complex, located in Shinsegae Department Store, has 23 different types of luxury baths, all using 100% hot spring water pumped from 1,000 meters underground, as well as steam rooms, an outdoor foot spa, barbers, nail salon, restaurant, game room, and pretty much anything else you could possibly want. It is quite reasonably priced, too, at 20,000 won for four hours and an additional 3,000 per hour after that. Plus, your locker key has an electronic tag that keeps track of all your purchases, so you can settle up after you leave rather than carry your wallet around the spa with you.
It was my first time at a Korean spa or jjimjilbang (찜질방), so I arrived a bit overprepared. My backpack was crammed with towels and toiletries, but all this is provided. You also definitely do not need to bring a bathing suit. Believe me, once you turn the corner and enter the dressing room, you are left under no illusion that swim shorts will not be necessary.
Like in all Korean jjimjilbang, everyone in the segregated bathing areas was naked. It was a bit daunting at first, but after a while it became quite liberating, and eventually, I just forgot about it.
I spent the first hour or so in the men’s bathing area; working up a good sweat in the sauna before plunging into a cold bath, then finally settling down in the warm jacuzzi. After that, it was time to hit the shared communal area (luckily you are provided with robes for this part) to try out some of the 13 different themed steam baths. It is like a world tour of pampering experiences. You can enjoy a Finnish Sauna, then hop on over to the Pyramid Room, before reclining back in the Himalayan Salt Room. I will not describe them all here, mostly because I cannot think of enough ways to say “relaxing” (my thesaurus has been working overtime for this section). The Body Sound Room, however, was very interesting. It looked just like an empty room at first, but once you lie down on the wooden boards, you become aware of low, natural sounds subtly vibrating your body. It was very soothing and made a nice change from sweating in the saunas.
Spa Land is so big you could easily spend the whole day there. But, feeling fully rejuvenated and with a stomach full of baked eggs (a popular snack in jjimjilbang), I was in the mood for some culture.
Luckily the Busan Museum of Art is a short walk from the department store and, better yet, it is completely free. The impressive gallery space spans across three floors, and each exhibition is designed to celebrate contemporary Korean art. The gallery space is filled with immersive works that range from the truly captivating to the slightly bizarre. A highlight had to be Lee Hyung-koo’s Illumination IV exhibition. Lee used his interest in human autonomy to create a series of realistic, life-sized skeletons of well-known Disney characters. It was both unsettling yet comical, and I did find it amusing to watch children beg their parents to have their photo taken next to the skeletal remains of Daffy Duck.
After that, it was time to hit Haeundae Beach in search of good food and a strong drink. The food was easy enough to find. Stop off at One Slice Pizza on Gunam-ro (구남로) for the most authentic-tasting, American-style pizza you will find in Korea. If you are looking for something a bit more traditional, try the Goraesa Fishcake Shop next door, which is famous for its wide variety of eomuk (어묵, fish cake).
Finding a place to drink was a bit harder. The beach was such a wash-out that everyone had the same idea of hitting the bars early. This meant putting your name down on a huge waiting list. As we carried on walking, however, we did stumble across a hidden gem. Muse On is a vinyl pub just a 10-minute walk from the main strip. The walls are filled with vintage vinyl records, there is a nice selection of cocktails, and the music is excellent. You can even write a song request on a bar napkin, and, if they have it, the bartender will grab the vinyl from the wall and play it for you. It was an excellent place to unwind after a day of… well, unwinding.
So, Sunday morning, I woke up and looked out of my bedroom window at the still sodden streets. The rain had continued to fall, but my outlook had changed. I had managed to salvage a gloomy weekend away with culture, cocktails, and hot springs. Not bad at all. Still, next time, I will make sure to check the forecast.
The Author
Adam Nash is a proud Yorkshireman, born and bred in Sheffield, England. He loves traveling, football, and playing music. He has been a drummer for over 20 years but recently picked up the guitar, as a drum kit will not fit in his apartment. Instagram @adam_nash62