Discovering Suncheon Bay
Written and Photographed By Sam Henderson
Just an hour or so away from Gwangju, the coastal wetlands of Suncheon Bay feels like another country and time, far removed from the hustle and bustle of modern Korean urban living.
At Suncheon Station the city itself seems similar to other smaller Korean cities, but a short bus or taxi ride towards the bay is where the holiday really begins. As the ride progresses, busy streets and big-box supermarkets are soon replaced by beautiful expansive views and glimpses of the gardens and wetlands Suncheon is famous for.
While the main village of Suncheon Bay is a little way inland, anybody disappointed by the lack of sea views will surely be charmed by the winding lanes and beautiful traditional architecture. There are a lot of restaurants and pensions for tourists, but most of the houses are very much lived-in by locals. A stroll down these alleyways affords a look at another way of life, seemingly a world away from cookie-cutter apartment block living. Traditional Korean architecture complete the illusion of visiting another time with trees and shrubs peeping over beautiful stone walls, showing an abundance of different fruits and vegetables being grown.
For the full experience, it is worth staying in one of the several refurbished hanok, traditional Korean house, pensions. The rooms are often sparse, but comfortable. A mat on the floor is normally the only furnishing, but you can just step out of your door into the beautiful garden to enjoy a morning cup of coffee in the pleasant breeze — with the rustle of the trees in the wind to complete the peaceful atmosphere.
The nearby International Garden Exhibition is one of the main sights. This beautifully realized park features small areas are landscaped in different international styles: a British garden, a Thai garden and, of course, a Korean garden amongst others. A small lake and various pieces of artwork dotted around are great for photo opportunities.
Another one-of-a-kind for Korea is the Skycube — the only fully-automated personal rapid transport (PRD) system in the country. High-tech individual pods travel on a raised track the four-and-a-half kilometers or so from the garden to near the entrance of the ecological park. Do not rush on too quickly though because the Dream Bridge that leads to the station is worth more than a passing glance. Small tiles decorated by children from across the globe line the walls, showing their hopes and dreams for the future.
The pod journey is enjoyable and seating is up to six people. But if it is not too crowded, you can have one pod for just you and your companions for the true “personal” transport experience. After you are deposited at the Literature Museum in view of a photogenic group of hanok on the river side, it is a short but enjoyable walk from there to the entrance.
As the river winds itself towards the ocean, the landscape as far as the eye can see consists of marshlands full of reeds swaying in the breeze. Look a bit closer and you will start to see the wildlife as well: red-clawed crabs scurrying around wherever you look and goggle-eyed gobies skipping over the mud.
A short hike up a nearby mountain leads to the highlight of the trip — a stunning view looking towards the coast, where you can watch the river expand into an estuary and be able to forget all of your stresses and problems and just enjoy the beauty of nature.
I am constantly surprised by the beauty of this small country – while Suncheon is just one of several scenic places in Jeolla province, it was certainly one of my favorite recent short-breaks and let me return to the hustle and bustle of normal life and work refreshed. Suncheon should definitely be on your bucket list!