My Korea: Autumn

Close your eyes (actually, keep them a little open to read this) and visualize the following scene. Crisp winds send pumpkin spice scents to your nose, as you pull your burnt orange infinity scarf tighter. A flannel-clothed scruffy dude, clinging onto a sixpack of Pumpkin Ale, crunches on desiccated leaves as he walks up the driveway for the carving party. Ah, it must be autumn. Having spent six years in the one-season state of Florida, I was captivated by my first autumn experience in Korea. I have since taken a liking to leaves and am always seeking the best sites to view foliage, so much so that my partner has begun surprising me with beautiful leaves rather than flowers. After all, “Autumn is a second spring, when every leaf is a flower.” Leaves are both the gatherer and producer of food for the tree. During spring and summer, leaves thankfully soak up the sunlight as they provide us with shade. As days get shorter and nights longer, there is less sunlight for the leaves to devour. The leaves’ chlorophyll thus breaks down, allowing other pigments their chance to shine – yellows, oranges, browns and reds – pigments not usually visible due to the overpowering chlorophyll. The result: the Earth is blanketed with such colors as amber and burgundy. Come September, post-summer Korea rejuvenates with life. Festivals sprout around the country each weekend and people spend more time outdoors than in fluorescently lit air-conditioned rooms. From the brilliant yellow gingko trees to the miniature leaves of Korean maples, taking a stroll under the vibrant colors is a mandatory autumn activity. Luckily, one does not have to travel far from Gwangju to savor autumn’s charm. One of Korea’s most famous places for foliage, or danpung, is just an hour northwest of Gwangju. Literally meaning “secret inside,” Naejangsan National Park has plenty of hiking trails for active folk, along with serene temples and waterfalls for casual mountain-goers. For a more leisurely day, bypass the hikers on the cable car that lifts people to the second-highest peak. It is no secret that Naejang Mountain is beautiful, but with that beauty comes hefty crowds. Baekyang Temple, a part of the national park, is a quieter place surrounded by excellent hiking trails. Buses from the Gwangju and Unam Bus Terminals run to and from the entrance of the temple. For a longer day trip, Jiri Mountain, two hours east of Gwangju, is a great place to bask in the autumn foliage. As the largest national park in Korea, it may be difficult to decide where to begin. Piagol Valley is an exceptional option. Its autumn landscape is commonly called Samhong,which means “three reds.” The valley is so famous for its crimson leaves that it holds an annual Autumn Foliage Festival. But plan fast, as the festival is only on November 1st and 2nd. Buses from Gwangju run frequently to Gurye. Then, take a 50-minute bus to Yeongok Temple, which is the largest on Jiri Mountain. The hike in the valley is more of a stroll and suitable for beginners. As they say, winters are getting longer and fall shorter, so go outside and enjoy “Autumn … the year’s last loveliest smile,” to quote poet William Cullen Bryant. See you in the curbside leaf pile!