Suamgol Village: The Warmth of Cheongju
By Emmanuela Sabatini
Have you visited North Chungcheong Province yet? If not, I would recommend visiting Suamgol (수암골) Village, an old settlement in Cheongju City that has been revived as a community of culture and art. Located between Cheongju City Hall and Cheongju University, Suamgol Village is easy to find. This attraction is easily reached by taking a bus directly from the Cheongju Bus Terminal. My friends and I recently had the opportunity to see this beautiful village in the heart of the province, and I cannot wait to share what I have learned.
Mural Art Tour in an Old Alley
The integration of artists within this community led to the creation of various stunning wall paintings starting in 2008. Known as the Suamgol Mural Village, these paintings can be appreciated by visitors who walk along the alley where they are displayed.
There are comical images, flowers, animals, and communities painted on the walls of the houses. The Suamgol Mural Village’s art tour also serves as a reminder of the past and stirs up old memories among visitors. After the tour, I went to Suamgol Observatory, the highest point in Cheongju City, which offers a fantastic view, especially at night.
Filming Story
After the murals were made, Suamgol became a famous filming site for dramas like Cain and Abel (2009), The Baker King, Kim Tak Gu (2010), Glory Jane (2011), and You Are My Spring (2021). The village even has a statue marking it as a symbol of drama and film.
I also visited Palbong Bread, located at the entrance of the village. Since it was featured in The Baker King, Kim Tak Gu, this local bakery has become a hotspot for tourists and movie fans alike. You can also get lunch at Yeonggwang-ine (영광이네), the guksu (noodle) house that was made famous by Glory Jane.
Lastly, I recommend you try one of the local cafes. Suamgol boasts of a variety of cafes, and they all have a beautiful view of the area. My friends and I chose the Fullmoon Cafe, the filming location of The Baker King, Kim Tak Gu. Then we went to the rooftop and enjoyed the scenery of Cheongju City.
The people my friends and I met in Suamgol Village were all warm, humble, and welcoming. Since moving to South Korea, I have rarely been greeted by strangers on the street, especially in the big cities. But Cheongju presents a different atmosphere. The residents greeted us while we looked around Suamgol Alley. We felt so touched by their warmth that we said hello to every person we saw on the street. We even had a few conversations along the way. I was delighted to meet the residents of Suamgol Village and experience what their local culture had to offer!
Photographs by Emmanuela Sabatini.
The Author
Emmanuela Sabatini is originally from Jakarta, Indonesia. After graduating with a master’s degree from Keimyung University, South Korea, she landed an internship at the Gwangju International Center in 2020. In March 2021, she started working at one of South Korea’s many educational institutions. You can follow her journey at www.emmasabatini.com. Instagram @emmasabatini