Island Life: Discover Hidden Wando
Written by Áine Byrne.
Most people living in Korea know Wando (완도) for its boat terminal to Jeju or as a quick stop before going to Myeongsa-simni Beach on nearby Sinji-do. Few people know where to go in Wando town or on the island. Lonely Planet has little to say and travel bloggers rarely get past the beach, harbor, or boat terminal before passing it over as a pit stop on the map. After the peak season in July passes, few visitors realize that Wando is a hot spot right up until the leaves fall in late October. In this article, I will share some of my favorite places as an ex-local, along with some local and expat perspectives on the best the area has to offer, things to do, and what it is like living in such a remote area.
About Wando
Wando is considered an island of health and is a short hop from some of Korea’s most beautiful beaches, and the islands of Sinji-do, Gogeum-do, Cheongsan-do, and Nowa-do are short trips from the town. The town harbor is a shell’s throw away from the local bus terminal and provides a lovely stroll towards the tiny island of Judo at the end of the harbor. It is such a beautiful town and well worth spending time seeing what it has to offer in terms of hot spots.
How to Get There?
By bus: Wando is a two-hour bus ride from the U-Square Bus Terminal in Gwangju. You can take a direct bus that stops in the towns of Yeongam, Haenam, and Gunoe along the way. By car: The journey is much faster this way, and if you know the way, it will take about 1.5 hours, or two hours including a stop or two.
Food & Places to Visit
Arriving in Wando, if you make your way to the Seaweed Museum, from this point walk along the harbor towards Judo. On the harbor, you will be struck by the freshness of the seafood laying out to dry and the wide array of seafood restaurants. If raw seafood is to your taste, it is recommended by locals to try the local specialty jeonbok (전복, abalone). When I cooked jeonbok, I baked it in the oven with lemon and garlic, it tasted rich and was quite filling. Raw seafood is not for everyone; most people we met only wanted to taste it or wanted to eat some familiar food instead.
If you prefer to try other dishes, the town has been developing its tourism industry and now offers more Korean fusion and Western food options. If you are looking to try food in Wando, I recommend copying or typing the Hangeul place names below into Naver Maps for locations online.
Best Food
• BBQ: Byuschibdul Korean BBQ (볏짚돌) or Wando Daewan Korean BBQ (완도대완).
• Pizza: Mr. Pizza (미스터피자). For pasta and pizza: The Jinpum (더 진품).
• Salads: Thank You Today (고마워 오늘), brunch café.
• Chicken: Kyochon Chicken (교촌), near the bus terminal.
• Ramen: Haemijubap (혜미주밥), near the harbor, red pier. Noodletree (누들트리), near the bus terminal.
• Korean Food: Kamaseul Gamtang (가마솔곰탕) for beef soup. Geumseong Garden (금성가든) for bibimbap.
Best Drink Venues
• Wando Salon (완도살롱), beside Wando Library, for cocktails, coffee, and cheese boards.
• C’est La Vie (쎄라비), at the harbor near Judo, for beer, wine, coffee, pizzas, and dessert.
• Chicken Phong (치킨퐁) for Korean chicken and pizza.
• Fish and Grill (피쉬앤그릴) Korean, fusion food, salads, and pizza.
Best Cafes
• Coffee and Cake (커피와 케이크) – desserts and coffee.
• Café Venezia (까페베네치아) – desserts and coffee at Wando Harbor.
• Kim’s Café (김카파) – desserts and coffee near the boat terminal.
• Wandonesia Café & Guesthouse (완도네시아) – Enjoy barista coffee or flower teas over mesmerizing views of Judo Island.
• Doner 49 Café (도너49 카페) – ice coffees and bingsu.
Best Places to Visit
As I mentioned above, Wando is an island of health, so there are many places to see and visit to help you relax and unwind.
• Wando Harbor (완도항) – Go along the harbor and see fishermen unloading the catch of the day and ladies placing fish out to dry on stands.
• Wando Seaweed Museum (완도 해조류박물관) – This is a place to learn about different varieties of seaweed in Korean (use a translator or app).
• Wando Tower (완도타워) – Go up on the carousel, take a lift up to drink a cup of coffee, and look out at the panoramic view. Afterwards, have fun on the recently installed zip line.
• Jeonmangdae Hike (전망대) – This is a sweet mountain trail with many flowers, birds, and insects. It offers many opportunities to peak through trees and see the ocean views from the island.
• Sinheung Temple (신흥사) – Take a walk towards Wando Boys’ Middle School, cross the road, and walk up the steep left road to this quaint Buddhist temple. It has a breathtaking view overlooking Wando city. If you choose to visit, please respect the peaceful nature of the temple.
Best Places Close to Wando
• Wando Arboretum (완도수목원) – This is a health forest unique for its flowers and walkways and is worth a visit early in the day or on your way home.
• Cheongsan Island (청산도) – Almost one hour away by boat is this adorable little island. Popular in spring, it is famous for its lush landscape, beaches, and seafood restaurants that are located at its port. Take a taxi or bus around the island or take a slow hike on its famous slow walking trail.
• Mihwangsa Temple (미황사) – As one leaves Wando, there is a large white bridge. Close to this bridge is the turn you need to take for this temple. This is one of the oldest temples in Korea and an unexpected experience. There are English-language temple-stay options, superb hikes, an authentic café, and a store selling high-quality Korean products.
• Sinji Myeongsa-simni Beach (신지 명사십리 해수욕장) – To get there, take a bus from the local terminal or drive fifteen minutes to the beach. If you do not know already, this is one of the best beaches in Korea. While at the beach, definitely stop at one of the following places: Café Ditto (카페디토) – sandwiches, pizza bread, desserts, and coffee; or Yolo Café
(욜로 카페) – desserts and coffee on Sinji-do.
Local Perspectives
Even on Wando, there are many aspects I am unaware of; it is important to be aware of other perspectives. I asked local islanders and expats about their favorite restaurants, places, and experiences living on a remote island like Wando. For anyone wanting to visit Wando or even considering moving to a remote area of Korea, here is what they had to say:
“I am a huge pizza fan, and Wando is home to many pizza restaurants. My favorite is Mr. Pizza. It is on the expensive side but offers a variety of mouthwatering pizzas, pastas, and side dishes. Also, Nanta 5000 (난타5000피자) is an affordable and delicious choice. My two other haunts include Noodle Tree, a place that sells a variety of noodle dishes, and The Jinpum (더 진품), an Italian restaurant.” — Alandra, USA
“I recommend the cafés C’est La Vie and Thank You Today. I like to do outdoor workouts with buddies – we use the equipment along the harbor. I like the walk up to Wando Tower and the view. Don’t be afraid to walk alone here, there are many single travelers around Wando. Just say hello to everyone. They will welcome you.” — Seul-hui, Wando, Korea
“My favorite place is Wando-salon (it is the best café in Wando to meet locals’ and foreigners’ needs). My favorite thing to do is drive on the west coast of Wando. Hwaheung Harbor (화흥 포항) and Cheongdo-ri Gugye-dong (청도리 구게동) are stargazing sites. Wando is a calm and cozy city, but you might feel lonely and bored, so go to Wando-salon. I will be waiting for you.” — Jeongin, Wando, Korea (This is a shameless plug; however, I think the salon is a great place, and they are very welcoming.)
“My favorite restaurant in Wando would have to be a Korean-Chinese restaurant called Wando Jjamppong (완도짬뽕). This is a typical Korean-Chinese restaurant that serves up the usual Korean-Chinese dishes. Their jjajang-myeon (짜장면) and bokkeum-bap (볶음밥) dishes are by far my favorite. A tip for people thinking about traveling to or living in a remote area and how to deal with it: Living in a remote area isn’t all bad, as long as you have something to keep you busy! It’s definitely advisable to have a hobby or some sort of side gig to keep you occupied during long school days and at home. There’s also nothing wrong with escaping to the city every now and then! It’s all about balance: Living in a rural area makes you appreciate what the city has to offer, and spending time in the city makes you grateful to live in a rural area.” — Stuart, South Africa
Before You Go
When you decide to visit Wando, for foreigners with little Korean, I recommend downloading Naver App (English) or do a simple search for unknown Korean words in the Naver or Daum search engines to locate the places recommended in this article. The website www.wando.go.kr has language options and will direct you to alternative places. If you want to camp or just go to the beach or port, visit the website above. There is plenty of information in there. If you decide to stay in a motel or hotel, be aware that Wando accommodation can be expensive, particularly during March–July and festival periods.
Over the next year or so, there will be many more activities available on Wando due to government investment in outdoor pursuits like sailing, Nordic walking, climbing, and more. As someone who enjoyed island life, my goal while in Wando was to find out and share its many benefits. I hope people will see more than the beach and the port of Wando.
Special thanks to locals Jeong-In Lee and Seul-hui Park as well as Stuart Hendricks and Alandra Lawrence.
Photographed by Áine Byrne and Stuart Hendricks
The Author
Áine Byrne is an English teacher and artist from Ireland. She enjoys writing, travel, art, and watersports. In the past, she has written for the Gwangju News, Turkish Airlines Skylife, Dublin Concerts, and Cult Magazine. She is now based in Suncheon and is finishing an MA in adult learning and global change.