Exploring Korea: Coffee in a Hanok – Tradition Preserved in Gokseong-gun

By Neha Bisht

Jeollanam-do is one of the larger provinces in South Korea, and exploring its cities and countryside is always a rewarding experience. The province has everything: lively cities filled with people, serene mountains covered in green, rivers that cut gracefully through the land, and a rich cultural heritage that feels distinct from the rest of the country. It is a place where tradition and nature exist in perfect harmony.

Among all the regions I have explored in South Korea, Jeollanam-do remains my favorite. What fascinates me the most about this province is its abundance of natural beauty: rolling mountains, clear rivers, and charming rural landscapes that offer a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of modern city life. One of the treasures of this province is Gokseong-gun, a small yet enchanting county situated approximately 60 kilometers from Gwangju.

The Road to Gokseong-gun

The journey itself is a highlight. As you travel toward Gokseong-gun, winding roads lead you through mountains blanketed in thick forest, where sunlight filters through the trees and the air feels crisp and refreshing. The Samjin River accompanies much of the route, its gentle flow glistening in the light, creating a picture-perfect backdrop. It is the kind of road trip that slows you down, inviting you to enjoy the journey as much as the destination.

What makes Gokseong-gun so special is its ability to transport you out of the fast pace of modern life. Here, the sounds of honking horns are replaced by the rustle of leaves, the calls of birds, and the soothing rhythm of the river. Surrounded by cloud-covered mountains and endless greenery, I found myself reconnecting with nature in a way that feels both calming and restorative. For city dwellers, Gokseong-gun offers the perfect weekend getaway – a chance to recharge in the embrace of Korea’s countryside.

A Café Like No Other

During a recent trip, I stumbled upon a hidden gem in Gokseong-gun – a café unlike any I had ever visited. It was not just a coffee shop but a cultural space where heritage, nature, and relaxation blended seamlessly.

The café, Dugaheon (두가헌), was built within several traditional Korean hanok-style village houses, each carefully preserved with its tiled roof, wooden beams, and rustic charm. Inside, antiques and old household items are displayed with care, giving the place the atmosphere of a living museum. In fact, the café even has a small museum section where many antiques are beautifully preserved, offering visitors a glimpse into the region’s cultural past.

The setting itself was exceptional. Nestled in a scenic location overlooking the Samjin River, the café provides a sense of peace and stillness that is rare to find. It even offers a spacious parking area – something that makes it very convenient for visitors. The drinks are slightly more expensive than what you might find in a typical city café, but the experience makes it well worth the price.

What I loved most was the variety of seating styles. Guests can choose from cozy ondol-style floor seating, private cabins for a more intimate atmosphere, or traditional chair-and- table arrangements. Each space is thoughtfully designed, offering both comfort and a unique experience. My friend and I chose a quiet spot, and we ended up spending hours there, simply sipping our drinks, soaking in the calm, and listening to the natural sounds around us.

The place was so peaceful that I didn’t want to leave. Every corner had something photogenic: traditional wooden details, antique decorations, or views of the mountains and river. I couldn’t resist capturing dozens of pictures on my phone. It felt like time stood still, and the longer we stayed, the more the tranquility of the place sank in.

Adding to the charm, the café overlooked the famous Samjin-gang Train Village, located just across the river. From the café, we could watch the vintage-style train pass slowly by, hear the whistle echo through the air, and admire how seamlessly it blended into the surrounding countryside. The scene was so picturesque that it felt almost cinematic.

That day, the weather was perfect for such a visit. The mountains were veiled in drifting clouds, the air was cool and refreshing, and the river added its own gentle soundtrack. Everything – the view, the heritage-inspired architecture, and the peaceful atmosphere – came together in harmony.

My visit to Gokseong-gun reminded me why Jeollanam-do is my favorite province in South Korea. It is not just about the places you see but the feelings they evoke. In Gokseong-gun, I found harmony between culture and nature, tradition and modern comfort.

Whether it was wandering through hanok-style buildings turned into a café, sitting quietly by the riverside, or watching the train run through the valley, the experience left me with a sense of peace that I will always treasure. For anyone seeking a destination that offers beauty, culture, and calm in equal measure, Gokseong-gun is a place worth discovering.

Dugaheon (두가헌) Address: 35 Dugye-gil, Godal-myeon, Gokseong-gun, Jeollanam-do (전남 곡성군 고달면 두계길 35) Open: 10:00–19:00 (Spring, summer, fall); 11:00–18:00 (Winter)