Yangdong Market

by Marley Heckner

Rather than talk about a “dong”, this month will be dedicated to Yangdong Market (양동시장). The reason for the switch is quite simple: I got lost there. Perhaps every person who has been in Gwangju longer than a month has heard of Yangdong Market. How many though have actually made their way there? Yangdong Market has many of the everyday items found at the local market. It has those not-so-everyday items as well. The market as operated on the second and seventh of the month since 1910. It moved under the Gwangjugyo Bridge in the 1940s. The Honam region considers this one of the largest markets, and some believe it is the best traditional market in South Korea.

The route is fairly simple. Take a subway or one of the many buses. The first time will take some orientation because it covers 1,253m² of space and has four buildings with over 300 different stores. This does not even include the vendors sitting alongside the street selling everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to cooked food. Upon entering, the smell of fresh fish overwhelms, but this is the beauty of Yangdong Market. All types of fish are for sale. Also, the market has various cuts of beef and pork that I cannot find at the local market.

If food is not the draw, a home goods space selling furniture, sheets, clothes, and even hanboks is sure to get attention. One of my favorite areas to walk is in the hanbok area. The rainbow pathways are tight, but to watch the seamstresses make hanbok in all shapes and styles is fascinating. A short walk across a small street to the bottom floor of an adjoining building and you will find shoes and bags galore. The upstairs has an inexpensive fabric shop that does not charge too much for alterations and mendings either. Also, the upper level has all of the curtains anyone could possibly want. The best part is knowing that all of these are high-quality products hand-made by skilled families of artisans.

The market also has recent history. During the May 18 rallies, vendors provided food, drinks, and medicine to those fighting for democracy. The market has also designated an area to serve the needs of low-income families. It also houses a slew of different international restaurants from different nationalities. Whether you have an afternoon, or an entire day visit Yangdong Market to discover new foods, find that perfect pair of shoes or just to drop off some clothes for alterations.