On the Frontline: The DMZ

A trip to the DMZ is a surreal one. It is noted for being one of the most volatile regions in the world but is, simultaneously, a popular tourist attraction. Personally, I cannot think of many other places in the world that have such knife-edge tensions but can still be visited by ordinary civilians. This combination alone makes the whole experience truly unique and worth the visit.

How to Rescue a Wet Weekend in Busan

After a quick regroup and Google search over breakfast and a strong coffee, I discovered my hotel was only a short walk away from Spa Land, one of Busan’s largest premier spas. This massive spa complex, located in Shinsegae Department Store, has 23 different types of luxury baths, all using 100% hot spring water pumped from 1,000 meters underground, as well as steam rooms, an outdoor foot spa, barbers, nail salon, restaurant, game room, and pretty much anything else you could possibly want.

Yŏch’ŏn 1996: Returning to My Vanishing Korean Hometown

Korea was a developing country back then – chaotic, construction everywhere, full of bad smells. Korean people were, if anything, kinder and more welcoming to strangers back then. Culturally, it felt geekier than today; I recall a fad at the time being guys wearing their glasses or sunglasses on the back of their heads, for whatever reason. We used to crack up watching “Icing,” a soap opera about a Korean hockey team.

From Seaside to Mountainside – Sokcho and Seoraksan

Located in the northeastern part of Gangwon Province, Sokcho is so far north that it was briefly under the control of North Korea after World War II , before finally changing hands following the Korean Armistice Agreement. These days, it is a popular getaway for those wanting to swap the stifling, summer streets of Seoul for the cool sea breeze of the coast.

The Purple Islands: Selfie Paradise

Ahhh, good old Shinan. Characterized by farmland, tidal flats, and all-around nice people, the 1,004 islands of the region are spread out, isolated, and beautiful.

The Rise of Indoor Skateparks

This article is just a small sample of the indoor parks in the country. In 2021 “skatepark academies” have popped up in Busan, Iksan, Wonju, Gyeonggi-do, and numerous locations in Seoul. And just to be clear, you do not have to take lessons at any of these places. For between fifteen and twenty thousand won, anyone can skate all day.

Destination: Jangheung, June 19−20, 2021

“As if to prove that my days as an American-Korean traveler are not over, I went to Seoul’s express bus terminal on Saturday morning, bellied up to the counter, bought a ticket to Jangheung, and hit the road.”

Suamgol Village: The Warmth of Cheongju

Suamgol (수암골) Village, an old settlement in Cheongju City, has been revived as a community of culture and art.