Easy Riding Korea: The Gwangju Gunners
In 2009 several foreigner motorcycle enthusiasts banded together on Facebook to form a group called the “Gwangju Gunners.” After four years they still meet during the spring/summer seasons and tour through many parts of Korea, visiting national parks and historical sites. I sat down with two current members of the group: Jonathan Brenner, who teaches at Chonnam National University, and the group’s co-founder, Vanessa McClellen, to talk about the “Gunners” and motorcycling in Korea.
1)Who started the ‘Gunners’?
Vanessa: It was founded in 2009 by four people – me, Kirk Murray, Dustin Pfeffer and Philip Schrank. We all rode motorcycles and needed to plan trips, so we created a Facebook page to organize riding times. The name ‘Gunners’ came after that and is from an English phrase meaning to accelerate quickly, like ‘gunning the engine.’ It’s kind of a play on words.
2) What do you ride?
Jonathan: I ride a dual sport BMW GS-650. I have had it for about six years.
Vanessa: I ride a cruiser model Honda Shadow 750, and I bought it this year.
3) Why bike in a group?
Vanessa: It’s fun and it’s safer. Everyone will get a number (rider 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.) and we will ride in a staggered fashion for maneuverability and to keep cars from cutting in on us. The more experienced riders will ride in front and in the back of the pack with new riders in the middle. This keeps us from making a wrong turn or from newer riders falling behind.
Jonathan: And I’ll usually lead because I have been in Korea the longest and have traveled the most. I know the roads fairly well and have a good mental map of where things are. I know the good roads and what roads to avoid. I want the trip to be relaxing for everyone.
4) Who can become a Gunner?
Jonathan: Anyone can join, Koreans or foreigners. We’ve had members from Scotland, Australia, Russia, Canada, America and New Zealand. We have a relaxed philosophy about riding, so anyone who likes to unwind and enjoy Korea by bike can be a part of the group. We recommend that a person’s bike be 125cc or higher in order to keep within the group on longer rides. Also, members should have the proper safety equipment like gloves and a helmet and that they have their proper license, tags and titles for their motorcycle.
5) How can a foreigner get a title, plates and license in Korea?
Vanessa: The laws are changing and Korea is becoming more strict about motorcycles being properly licensed. For a foreigner you should buy a bike from a reputable dealer who speaks some English. I went to Gwangju Nam Motors in Shinga-dong. After you fill out the proper paper work for transfer of title and insurance, take your ARC card and proof of insurance, with a Korean friend, and go to the local licensing office to get plates.
Jonathan: As far as I know, getting a motorcycle license depends on what size motorcycle you want to ride (above or below 125cc). You have to go to Naju on a specific weekday (a Tuesday or a Wednesday) and take both the written and driving portions of the motorcycle exam. Some people have an international driver’s license and can skip this process possibly, while others who only want to ride a 125cc or smaller may fall under the regular drivers/motorcycle license category.
6) Do you ride much in the city?
Vanessa: I don’t ride in the city unless I have to. The stop and go is straining, and cars don’t view motorcycles as equals and will push you off the road. I mostly ride in the countryside. The riding in this province is great and we’re so close to the seaside cities, the beaches and the tea plantations. Ten minutes from where I live, I can ride out into the countryside.
Jonathan: The city is very nerve-wracking. There is too much going on visually, and a good motorcyclist tries to limit the amount of risk that they take. In Korean cities there’s too much risk for me: people running red lights, buses turning into your lane or taxis on your rear end. I’ll spend a whole week going on cross-country journeys to get away from it and relax. I’ll come back loving Korea and feeling refreshed.
7) Where do you ride?
Jonathan: Korea is a beautiful place, I’ve been to every province and Gwangju has a nice urban rural spread. Within the group we will nominate a riding destination and go from there. Sometimes it’s one-day events. Other times it’s a weekend camping trip. One of our favorite places to ride is a historical site near Jon Sang, about 30 km north of Gwangju, taking the back roads. There is a 19th century battlefield site to see and we have picnics in the area. We usually open and close our riding season by going to this place in April, then in October. Also this year we might go to Gamagol, Namhae or Jin-do on more extended rides.
8) What’s a good motorcycle to begin with?
Vanessa: I tried to teach one person on a 250cc and they almost got hurt. A 125cc is definitely a good starter bike because it’s cheaper and there is less likelihood you will hurt yourself. Most people when they first start riding, they sometimes panic and you naturally grab the handle grips tighter and over accelerate. With a 250cc or higher, you can jerk back, take off and do some serious damage. When I first started riding, I rode a 125cc for two years, then moved up to a bigger bike.
10) What’s the best thing about a motorcycle?
Vanessa: To get out and go. In a car you’re just going from point A to B, whereas with a motorcycle, it’s an enjoyment.
Jonathan: I’ve learned more about Korea by taking motorcycle tours than anything else. Riding allows me to experience by participating and getting out there. It’s the difference between the ideas of a journey and a destination. In a car it’s about getting somewhere, the destination. With a motorcycle it’s more about riding, the journey.