Hawonjae Tearoom
A Taste of Home in a Cup of Tea.
Written and photographed by Fatemeh Khalili.
As I was missing home and the true taste of Persian black tea, my friend looked for a tea house to soothe my homesickness. As I live in a dorm in Korea, not being able to make hot tea in a teapot over the stove makes me deeply homesick, even more so since I brought some black tea leaves with me from Iran on my last visit. Iranians are super-obsessed with tea and drink it in the morning, after each meal, and throughout the rest of the day. Additionally, the first drink that one is offered when visiting someone home is usually a cup of tea. So, you may now understand how difficult it is for me to live without drinking tea from morning till night!
I am so thankful to my friend who introduced me to Hawonjae Tearoom (티룸하원재) in the heart of Gwangju’s Culture Street (문화의 거리) in Yangnim-dong (양림동). There you can discover the beauty of Gwangju’s history and enjoy seeing many different traditional houses and art galleries. We were supposed to visit Choi Seung Hyo’s house (최승효 가옥), which was built in 1920 and is one of Gwangju’s important cultural assets. It holds deep meaning for the people of Gwangju, as independence activists used to flee there during the Japanese colonial period in Korea. Unfortunately, because of the current situation caused by COVID-19, it was closed when we went. But we still enjoyed walking through the old streets of Yangnim-dong, which envelop you in a sense of nostalgia for Korea’s past. I highly recommend a peaceful afternoon walk in this neighborhood followed by a cup of hot black tea at Hawonjae Tearoom.
The outside of the shop hosts a small garden filled with shrubs and hydrangea flowers (수국), adding to the dreamy feel of the neighborhood. From the very first moment I saw this tearoom’s entrance, I knew it was going to fulfill my expectations. The owner of the shop greeted us with a warm smile, making me feel very much at home. Although the building and the interior design was completely done up in an English style, the tea totally satisfied me from my first sip. As you may or may not know, there are many different kinds of black tea from all around the world. If you are in doubt about which to choose, the owner will help you choose one to your liking depending on your preference in smell and/or taste. The prices range from 8,000 won to 12,000won for a full pot of delicious tea. A single teapot is enough for two, but if you want more, you can order two different types for more variety.
To me, this teahouse is reminiscent of a small teapot museum. The room is decorated with various fancy teapots and tea cups, and your tea is served in one of them along with scones and jam. If you prefer something different, you can also order from the selection of cakes that are available. Feel free to look around and take as many pictures as you wish until your tea is ready. The classical music in the background adds even more to the peaceful ambience of the shop.
As for the tea we chose on our visit, I had a pot of “Wedding Imperial” for its great smell, while my friend had a pot of “Afternoon Blend,” which we found tasted most similar to Persian black tea. While drinking tea together, I felt I could take shelter in this teashop whenever I feel homesick. Now it doesn’t matter if I don’t have a teapot or a kettle in my dormitory because whenever I want, I can have a delightful cup of tea that reminds me of home. Thanks to Hawonjae Tearoom, I feel more at home in Gwangju.
Hawonjae Tearoom (티룸 하원재)
Address: 광주광역시 남구 제중로47번길 11 (양림동)
Jejung-ro 47-beon-gil 11 (Yangnim-dong), Nam-gu, Gwangju
Business Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (times subject to change due to COVID-19); Closed on Mondays.
The Author
Fatemeh Khaliliis an Iranian GKS (Global Korea Scholarship) student studying Korean at Chonnam National University. She will begin a master’s in Korean literature in Seoul this autumn. She loves literature because she believes each country’s emotions and culture are included in its literature. Therefore, she wants to act as a bridge between Korea and Iran by translating each country’s literary works. Instagram: @koreanicles