Yuhyang: A Departure from Delivery

Reviewed and photographed by Jen Lee.

To how many generations must a fusion dish be served in a country before it is officially accepted as a mainstay in the local culture? If there is any dish that has been around long enough to earn such a status in this country, my money is on jjajang-myeon (짜장면, black bean sauce noodles). Though it may have originated from a Chinese dish, evolution and affordability have made what once may have been a foreign experience into a staple that I, along with millions of others, am all too happy to consume on a semi-regular basis.

I was invited by one of my favorite dining buddies to check out Yuhyang (유향) to try what he believed was the best version in town of this classic comfort food. As tempting as it was to stay home and opt for delivery as an excuse to not venture outdoors, his high praises combined with my eternal desire to explore more of the food scene in Gwangju made it impossible for me to turn down such a proposition.

The restaurant itself is easy to miss. Located in the quiet area of Hanam-dong (하남동), I almost missed its unassuming location due to it being on the second floor of a building that offered very little information about its promised good eating inside.

The select number of options on the menu at this fusion restaurant, though lacking in English translations, offered pictures to give me a good idea of what we were ordering. It appeared as if the highlighted items were carefully chosen based on the restaurant’s unique fusion specialties. This lack of details may provide some difficulties for those with specific food allergies, especially when it comes to seafood.

Trying to figure out what to choose proved to be somewhat tricky, as there were only two of us and I wanted to try everything. My buddy and I both knew we were there for the jjajang-myeon, but even that put us in the position of having to choose between the Yuhyang jaengban jjajang (유향쟁 반짜장) and the Sacheon jjajang (사천짜장), both of which looked equally tempting and different from any take on this dish I had ever had before. Other selections that tempted me included the Yuhyang jjamppong (유향짬뽕, Yuhyang’s spicy seafood noodle soup), which the restaurant is famous for due to its abundant serving of seafood, and the mapa dubu (마파두부, tofu in spicy sauce). We ultimately decided to enjoy this meal in the most classic way we knew and ordered the Yuhyang jaengban jjajang (유향쟁반짜장, Yuhyang’s tray of black bean noodles), only available in large portions for two or three people, and the Gwangdong tangsuyuk (광동탕수육, Guangdong sweet and sour pork), which offered both a so (소, small) or dae (대, large) size. (We got the small one.)

Shortly after we placed our order, we were treated to a complimentary serving of fried dumplings as a quick appetizer, along with the usual sides of raw onions, danmuji (단무지, yellow pickled radishes), and chunjang (춘장, bean paste), all three of which I am terrible for not normally taking advantage of.

The first item to arrive was the Gwangdong tangsuyuk, which came with a side of a deeply colored and thick sauce filled with vegetables and topped with roasted sesame seeds. Making it a point to try the pork on its own before getting into the dipping game, I immediately noticed how light, crispy, and savory the fried batter on the outside was. The black sesame seeds added a striking visual contrast in addition to a nutty flavor that elevated this classically fried pork to another level. I was tempted to eat all of this dish on its own before having to remind myself that it was meant to be eaten with the translucent sauce it came with. Though I have not always been keen on the viscous sweetness that typically comes with otherwise perfectly fine morsels of fried pork, I rather liked this rendition that, though still sweet, was balanced out with a tangy, fruity bite and mellow undertones. The contrasting flavors played together nicely and the pork remained magically crunchy throughout its many dunking sessions.

Before we could fill up too much on crispy meat, the star of the meal arrived. Upon a giant plate came our beautifully arranged Yuhyang jaengban jjajang. The three visible layers consisted of a foundation of the more traditional noodles mixed with a more savory version of the classic black bean gravy, and a clearer and spicier combination of seafood, vegetables, and sauce, with lovely little piles of julienned cucumbers, carrots, and eggs. Considering how pretty the dish was, it was almost a shame to wreck it by mixing everything together, but it did not take long for me to get over the visual loss in exchange for satisfying my appetite. While I have had many different versions of this dish that I could not seem to eat without requiring a pile of napkins, I think it is safe to say that this is now my favorite version. The black bean gravy was flavorful while lacking that sweetness that can often be found in delivery versions, and the spicier sauce added just the right amount of heat that did not send the entire dish into the realm of discomfort. The bits of seafood were also nice, but I especially loved the juicy mushrooms that had soaked up a lot of flavors while maintaining that meaty texture.

All in all, my lunch at Yuhyang was a tasty experience that left my hungry dining buddy and me with the sole regret of not being able to finish everything. Though the two of us can usually clean up pretty well with our hefty appetites, the portions at the restaurant were more than generous for even the hungriest of visitors without placing equally heavy dents in our wallets. For those who may still be on the fence about giving this intimidating dish a try, I recommend making that jump at a quality place like this before settling for delivery. I understand that it may not look so delicious to anyone who does not have a lifetime of nostalgia attached to its brown imagery, but there is a good reason why it continues to maintain its position as comfort food.

Yuhyang 유향

Time: 11:00–20:30 (break time: 15:00–17:00), closed on Mondays
Address: Yonga-ro 400-beongil, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju 광주 광산구 용아로400번길
Tel: 062-954-9530

The Reviewer

Jen Lee is a freelance artist, communications consultant, and ex-food blogger who currently lives in the United Arab Emirates while sneaking trips to her old stomping grounds in Gwangju whenever possible. Her hobbies include indulging in activities that leave her with little time to sleep and practice healthier habits.