A Weekend at Wando

By Chris Backe

Meaning literally ‘Grass Island’, Wando is best reached by bus from Gwangju’s bus terminal. The island has two bus terminals – Wan-dong in the north and Wando-eup in the south. My first destination – Wando Arboretum (or Wando Sumokwon) was far enough removed that the term ‘middle of nowhere’ applies.

“Sometimes, you’ve got to get away.
No, I’m not talking about some simple day-trip
to random Gyeonggi-do, or even
a multi-day endeavor to conquer a mountain.
I needed to get away,
not just from other waygooks,
but also from the familiar.”

 –

A common starting point when visiting Wando is the gyo-yuk gwannidong, or the exhibition hall and office. While it’s a good introduction to the nature and ecosystems present, it’s entirely in Korean. Wando’s location in the extreme south of South Korea is shown as set amongst the Nandaelim, or sub-tropical forest.

Next, walk along the river on the long wooden bridge – easily one of the most relaxing sights around, or the perfect place for a slow stroll. Between the forest to your left and the water to your right, it’s hard to choose which is the better view.

Once in the forest, there’s a clear difference between being under the canopy and under the clear sky. The paths are clear enough, but take care when walking them anyway.

Another major stop is the Sanlim bakmulgwan, or Forest Museum – fairly standard exhibitions of  animals, plants, the water currents affecting the climate, and so on. You can also check out the ahyeol daeonsil or the Tropical Greenhouse.  Dozens of cacti species dig the warmth, of course.

Beyond the aforementioned, there are a multitude of mountain trails just waiting to be explored. The half day or so spent walking around can easily turn into a full day of meandering. A couple of signs are in English, but everything else is in Korean – the maps are readable in any language though.

The tower… of laser shows?

After the arboretum, the next main stop on the island is Wando Tower. Best seen in the afternoon or at sunset, the nearby parks and the area make it worth sticking around well after the sun sets.

Take a taxi most of the way up or climb the hundreds of wooden steps – either way, it’s a bit of a trek. At 76 meters (193 feet) tall, it’s the most noticeable building on the island; like other towers around the world, Wando Tower offers a 360-degree view, and also throws in a couple of floors of local products and exhibits.

On your way down the stairs, stop and smell the roses – or just take some pictures. There are ample benches along the way when your feet (or knees) need a break.

The harbor near Wando Tower serves as a cornucopia of colors, and is a reminder of what you don’t see in Seoul. Between the fish drying in the foreground, the evergreen forest island of Judo in the background, and a few boats in between, it’s clear you’ve come a long way from the city.

As you might expect, they offer mainly fish and seafood, but there is one Korean-style bar serving fried chicken. Even after the sun goes down, the area stays surprisingly active with plenty of rotating rainbow lights and fountains; it’s a perfect place to meet friends or enjoy a drink. The former keeps the area interesting, while the latter seem to be favored by kids. As a bonus, the Wando Tower features a laser show that plays over the water

There are plenty of hotels around the Wando-eup terminal, although a few are closer to the beach park if you’re tired of walking. While  Wando is gorgeous and peaceful, there’s very little English around. Be prepared to navigate via taxi and practice your Korean – for better or worse, it’s part of the area’s rural charm.

Directions to Wando Arboretum: go to Wan-dong bus terminal (NOT Wando-eup Bus Terminal – these are two DIFFERENT bus terminals on the same small island). Buses do go from one to the other; it just adds another step to the journey.

From Wan-dong Bus Terminal, take a taxi to Wando Arboretum (Wando Sumokwon). My taxi driver quoted me a price of 4,000 won for the 8-10 minute ride. Once you arrive, the taxi driver may offer you his name card; take it! It’s unlikely that there will be any taxis waiting when you’re ready to leave.

Directions to Wando Tower: go to Wando-eup Bus Terminal (not Wan-dong bus terminal – these are two different bus terminals on the same small island). About 20 buses a day head to the island from Gwangju, while Seoul and Busan both have a handful of direct buses every day. Buses do go from one Wando terminal to the other; it just adds another step to the journey.

From Wando-eup Bus Terminal, you can either walk to Wando Tower (‘Wando Tawo’), or take a short taxi ride. Either way, it’s easy to find. If looking to walk, be aware that it’s about a two-kilometer hike and up plenty of steps; a taxi can take a side road almost the entire way to the top.