Gangjin: The Hidden Gem of Jeollanam-do

Written and photographed by Lea Moreau

What is the first thing you think of when you hear “South Korea”? Many people tend to agree on the fact that the country is high-tech, fashionable, and modern. When these same people are asked to describe Korea in a few words, very often you will hear them talk about K-beauty, K-pop, hallyu (Korean Wave), plastic surgery, or the latest smartphone.

But Korea has this intriguing ability to mix modernity with tradition, something we saw on display during the opening ceremony of the 2018 PyeongChang Olympic Games. It showed South Korea’s need to return to the true source of its founding principles.

Korea has always offered access to its incredible heritage in terms of culture, tradition, gastronomy, and history. So today, I would like to discover with you an intriguing and historical city that ticks off all these boxes, Gangjin.

An almost secret city hidden in Jeollanam-do, Gangjin is recognized by Koreans as the birthplace of Goryeo celadon. Formed during the 15th century, Gangjin is perfectly located between Wolchul Mountain and Gangjin Bay, allowing inhabitants to engage both in agriculture and fishing. Thanks to these geographical advantages, Gangjin has also become famous for its gastronomy!

Last year, I was invited to the Namdo Food Festival, held in the area. It was an incredible experience to try a variety of foods representing Jeollanam-do. I was able to try really healthy foods, including local specialties such as clams, eels, kimchi, and locally grown rice. Located in the area of Gangjin Bay Ecology Park, I could ride a bicycle for free and admire the beautiful landscape. On top of that, many different events were organized, like parades, food contests, concerts, and cultural performances. This festival definitely opened my eyes to the massive varieties of food that Korea has to offer.

For those who are unfamiliar with Korean food, it is important to know that the Jeolla provinces are recognized as being the best in terms of food and delicacies in Korea. In fact, throughout the centuries, it has always been an agricultural area offering fresh and authentic cuisine. Many locals will tell you that the gastronomy of the Jeolla provinces is the best, and I can proudly say there is definitely a whole world of authentic tastes to discover!

With my belly satisfied, I wanted to learn more about the Goryeo Dynasty and the reason why Gangjin became a famous place for making celadon.

To understand this, however, one must first understand Gangjin’s geography. Thanks to the Gangjin-cheon (Gangjin Stream) and Gangjin-man (Gangjin Bay), these waterways offered opportunities to begin trade with merchants from many different nations like China, Japan, and even Arab nations. This trade route allowed Koreans to more easily sell the Goryeo celadon created in the region. Not only was the area the best for producing ceramics and pottery but transport and trade were made easier by the area’s ready access to the sea.

Since I was really interested in learning more, I decided to visit Gangjin Celadon Museum, where I was able to see a huge exposition of masterpieces, including celadon works that date back to the 9th and 14th centuries. I was also able to view the original kilns that served in the production of celadon all those years ago. Being able to visualize the entire process of celadon production was really quite impressive.

I learned that merchants sold not only celadon but also exchanged other things like books, art, philosophy, and ideas. I truly believe the influences from these historical exchanges have trickled down to Gangjin’s current residents. As a case in point, artists, activists, and philosophers have been living in the area throughout the centuries.

Speaking of celadon, did you know there is an annual Gangjin Celadon Festival? In fact, Gangjin’s Celadon Festival was selected by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism as South Korea’s best festival in 2017. Clearly, the Ministry recognizes the importance of globalizing Korean culture through showcasing the excellence of Goryeo celadon and other works of art with over 1,000 years of history! Usually hosted for nine days, the festival allows tourists to learn the art of making pottery and admire the special exhibitions of celadon works. Visitors can also try wearing traditional Goryeo costumes.

Speaking of art, next to the Gangjin Celadon Museum, one can also find the Korean Minhwa Museum. Minhwa (민화), or Korean folk painting, is featured at this museum with particular focus on works created during the Joseon Dynasty. On the second floor, there is an area restricted only to adult visitors. To be perfectly honest, some of the art pieces can be rather shocking, but they provide visitors with another perspective on sexuality in Korea. The erotic paintings in the exhibition depict the lifestyle and sexual relationships Koreans had during the Joseon Dynasty. As a foreigner, seeing these images was a really interesting discovery in terms of culture shock and other stark differences.

Last, but not least, I went to Gau-do Island. Gau-do became famous because of its remote location in the middle of Gangjin Bay, making the entire area into a peaceful gem of tranquility. In the old days, few people frequented Gau-do because it was considered a mysterious place. However, these days, a lot of people enjoy taking a walk on the island’s premises. The local government built a walking trail around the island and even a suspension bridge that connects the island to the mainland.

The great thing about this place is that motor vehicles are not allowed. Thus, one can only cross the bridge on foot and enjoy the beautiful scenery far from the crowded, busy, and noisy city.

If you are feeling more adventurous, do not worry – I found the perfect attraction for you! Currently perched on the top of the island, a celadon pot-shaped observatory offers incredible views. What is more, it even has an 800-meter-long zip line that is by far the best you can find in Jeollanam-do. Thrill seekers can descend on the zip line from Gau-do across the bay to the Jeodu-ri shore. The view is amazing, and I was so glad I could do it with my friend. Although the zip line does not look really scary from the bottom, when you climb up to the top and hold your last breath before taking the big jump, you will feel scared for sure! The ride is both quiet and long, so it allows you to admire the beautiful scenery. One can marvel at the bay, its surrounding islands, and uniquely shaped coastline. It is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Be sure to check the weather forecast before visiting the zip line, as the company does not allow rides on extremely windy days.

From Wolchul Mountain to Gangjin Bay, everything here is made only of beauty and nature. The city is also famous for its delicate gastronomy and rich history. As a travel specialist, I sincerely recommend you visit this place and enjoy not only everything the region has to offer but also the satisfaction of traveling without crowds of tourists surrounding you. Gangjin is a must for those looking to explore Jeollanam-do.

For more information, check out Lea’s two videos on YouTube promoting Gangjin tourism:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHtq3_SmF0M
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgDK1ELs9fI
You can also follow Lea both on Facebook and YouTube at Leadventure.
For more information about Jeolla travel, check out Lea’s other channel, Jeolla Go.

THE AUTHOR
Lea is a French travel specialist currently based in Geoje-do. She has traveled to 27 countries so far, and has also created her own YouTube channel in order to share her passion for travel and tourism, and to give useful tips and advice along the way. She won second place in the Jeollabuk-do Travel Video Contest and was recognized as an official tour trainer by the Seoul Tourism Organization. Her dream is to help promote tourism in Korea and abroad, and maybe even have her own travel show on TV.