Freedom on Two Wheels: A 1400-Kilometer Solo Motorbike Journey Across Korea – February 2025

By Vibhanshu Maurya

Owning a motorbike is liberating in a way that a car can never match. There’s something about the freedom it offers – no stress about parking, tolls, or navigating narrow roads. It’s just you, the open air, and the road stretching endlessly ahead. Riding through unfamiliar roads, especially in a foreign land, might seem daunting at first, but for me, it was the beginning of an unforgettable adventure that changed the way I saw Korea.

The desire to ride a motorbike across Korea began a year ago. I was on a bus traveling from Busan to Sokcho during a solo trip. The highway hugged the coastline, the sea shimmering on one side and the mountains rising on the other. The sound of waves crashing against the shore and the fresh sea breeze made the journey mesmerizing. I couldn’t help but imagine myself riding a motorbike along that very road, the wind brushing past my helmet and the hum of the bike beneath me. That vision stayed with me long after the trip ended, planting a seed for an adventure I knew I had to embark on.

A year later, I earned my Korean driving license on a rainy day. Not wanting to spend too much, I bought a used motorbike, a Hansom 125, through Karrot. Riding on Korean roads felt intimidating at first. Coming from India, I was used to riding on the left side of the road, whereas in Korea, everything was reversed. The highways weren’t exactly motorbike-friendly either, with many off-limits to two-wheelers. I started cautiously, riding only within my university campus to build confidence.

Conversations with a Korean friend, who is also an avid rider, gave me the encouragement I needed. With time, I realized that despite the initial hesitation, riding in Korea was easier than I had imagined. The roads were smooth, traffic rules were followed, and navigating became second nature after a few trips.

My first venture beyond Gwangju was a short ride to the Korea International Circuit. It was a rainy day, and halfway through the journey, I found myself caught in a downpour. There was no shelter nearby, and by the time I reached a gas station to refill, I was already soaked. Instead of retreating, I embraced the moment, riding through the rain with a smile. The sensation of raindrops hitting my skin was a mix of pain and exhilaration. By the end of the day, I was drenched and tired but completely hooked on the idea of riding long distances.

As the Chuseok holiday approached, I realized this was the perfect opportunity to bring my year-long dream to life. The idea of revisiting that highway between Busan and Sokcho was irresistible. I wanted to use the five-day break to its fullest but also didn’t want to rush. On Saturday morning, I packed my bags, checked my bike, and set off in the afternoon with a mix of excitement and trepidation.

Navigating Korea on a motorbike is not straightforward. Many expressways are off-limits, and even apps like Naver and Kakao Maps aren’t entirely reliable for bikers. After researching online and joining a Facebook group called “ROK Riders – Motorcycling in Korea,” I received helpful tips and warnings about routes. However, no one could guarantee a foolproof navigation plan. I decided to rely on Kakao Maps and accept the uncertainty as part of the adventure.

The first leg of my journey was to Myeongpa Beach in Goseong, Gangwon-do, over 500 kilometers away. The ride began smoothly, the roads gliding beneath my wheels as I left the city behind. After five hours, fatigue began to set in. It was already dark, and I decided it was safer to stop for the night. I booked a motel in Icheon, a quiet city close to Seoul, avoiding the chaos of the capital. That evening, I explored the city’s streets and observed its nightlife – a mix of motels, karaoke bars, and late-night food stalls. Despite the lively atmosphere, I chose to rest early to recharge for the next day.

The morning greeted me with rain. Light at first, it soon turned heavy, soaking me as I rode toward Sokcho. While riding in the rain can be challenging, there’s something undeniably thrilling about it. The cold drops hitting my gear, the misty air, and the gray skies created an atmosphere that felt both serene and invigorating. I stopped occasionally to refuel, take in the mountain views, and grab a bite to eat, though finding vegetarian options proved challenging. By afternoon, I reached Myeongpa Shore near the DMZ. It was foggy, with strong waves crashing against the rocks, creating a dramatic yet tranquil scene. I lingered for a while, appreciating the solitude, before heading to Sokcho for the night.

The next day, I set out for what I had been dreaming of for a year – the coastal ride from Sokcho to Busan. The journey along the eastern coastline was everything I had imagined and more. The sea stretched endlessly on one side, with waves gently lapping at the shore. The road twisted and turned, offering breathtaking views at every corner. Fellow bikers waved as they passed, a silent camaraderie that only riders share. I made sure to stop frequently to soak in the scenery, snapping pictures and savoring the peacefulness of the moment.

Reaching Busan in the evening, I felt both exhausted and elated. The city was alive with Chuseok celebrations, the streets bustling with families and travelers. I spent the evening at Haeundae Beach, where the bright moonlight reflected off the waves, creating a serene and magical atmosphere. Meeting a friend there, we shared stories over a quiet dinner before parting ways.

The following day, I headed to Tongyeong, a picturesque coastal city south of Busan. The weather had shifted dramatically from the cool, rainy north to the hot, sunny south. The heat was oppressive, and by midday, I decided to skip Geoje, another destination I had considered. The sudden change in weather was taking a toll, and I longed to return home. Setting my navigation for Gwangju, I began the final stretch of my journey. Rain returned as I approached the city, a fitting end to a trip that had been defined by ever-changing skies.

When I finally arrived home, I was exhausted but deeply content. Over four days and 1,400 kilometers, I had experienced the beauty of Korea in a way few travelers do. The smooth highways, the rugged coastline, the misty mountains, and the welcoming people had all left an indelible mark on me. Riding a motorbike through Korea wasn’t just an adventure; it was a journey of self- resilience, and pure freedom.

As I parked my bike and removed my helmet, I couldn’t help but smile. The road had given me more than I could have ever imagined, and I knew it wouldn’t be long before I set off again.

Photograph by Vibhanshu Maurya.